Alaska
Our 25th Wedding Anniversary Trip
June 4-18, 2004
Allen & Nancy Chartier
Day 1, Friday, June 4
We flew from Detroit to Chicago on United Airlines, departing at 3:50 p.m. Our American Airlines flight from Chicago to Anchorage departed more than 1/2 hour late, at 7:30 p.m. Still, we arrived in Anchorage only 15 minutes late. We picked up our rental car from Payless, who had under-quoted the tax by $70. We then drove to our motel, the Puffin Inn, which was close by. It was midnight (4:00 a.m. at home) before our heads hit the pillow.
Day 2, Saturday, June 5
After a poor night's sleep, we got up at 6:00 a.m. and started birding the Anchorage area by 7:00. We checked Spenard Crossing, where a male Tufted Duck had been seen, but we had no luck...we couldn't find our way over to the lake it was in so had to scope the area from across the freeway. Next we went to Potter Marsh, which only had Wilson's Snipe for shorebirds and very few ducks. We continued on into Seward making many birding and scenery stops along the Seward Highway. We birded a few areas in the Seward area, then turned in at a more reasonable hour than last night.
Day 3, Sunday, June 6
Today we took an all day (8:30-5:30) boat tour of Resurrection Bay and Kenai Fjords National Park. We went south through Resurrection Bay, around Aialik Cape, and north into Aialik Bay to Aialik Glacier where we had lunch. The glacier calved a few times while we were there. We had to scrap plans to continue south into the Chiswell Islands because of sea fog and increasing southwest winds, which were blowing into all the sheltered bays preventing stable viewing. Instead we continued northeast across the south end of Resurrection Bay to Barwell Island, then north back to Seward. After dinner we tried again, unsuccessfully, to find a Rufous Hummingbird in Seward and Miller's Landing.
Day 4, Monday, June 7
We got up early and made one last check of a few hummingbird feeders we'd found in our "neighborhood" hoping for Rufous, but no luck. Then we drove to Homer, making several stops. At the Skilak Recreation area, in addition to a few birds, we saw two Moose and a Black Bear. At Anchor Point, there was a surprising number off pelagic birds offshore. In Homer, we checked out the Spit and found a few birds, despite (or because of) the rain, including many Aleutian Terns, and surprisingly a Sabine's Gull and a Slaty-backed Gull.
Day 5, Tuesday, June 8
The morning brought a steady drizzle, which didn't bode well for our 10 a.m. boat trip on Kachemak Bay. We checked the end of the Homer Spit, not finding anything new, then went to the boat dock. The weather was clearing and everything went well. We returned to the dock around 1:30. We explored a couple museums in Homer before dinner, and birded a couple new areas north and east of town. There were four Moose in town, including a female with twin calves in someone's front yard, eating flowers from their garden!
Day 6, Wednesday, June 9
This morning we left early for Anchorage. We stopped again at Anchor Point, where there were seabirds offshore as before, and near Ninilchik. We went through the Skilak Lake SRA again, and continued to Portage, seeing a Brown Bear along the side of the freeway. Near Portage we then stopped at Portage Glacier. Then we stopped again at Beluga Point and this time saw Dall Sheep. Another stop at Potter Marsh netted a couple new birds, and the coastal portion of the Spenard Crossing area had some new shorebirds. We then had an Italian dinner for our 25th anniversary.
Day 7, Thursday, June 10
Today we drove from Anchorage to near the entrance to Denali NP just past Cantwell. First, we checked the Anchorage waterfront for a breeding-plumaged Sabine's Gull that had been present June 4, but not today. The scenery was great on the way to Denali, but as we got closer it started to rain. This continued on into the early evening, preventing us from seeing the great mountain.
Day 8, Friday, June 11
Rain most of the day prevented views of Mt. McKinley, but we stuck to our birding agenda. First, we drove about 35 miles east on the Denali Highway in ever-increasing rain. We managed brief views of our lifer Arctic Warbler, which was quite responsive to the CD player in the car as we played song once a singing bird was located. Smith's Longspurs required a slog over tundra in the rain, with one giving only the briefest of views. The others quit singing before I even got close. Another tundra tromp, for ptarmigan, was unsuccessful. We then went to Denali NP and drove the first 15 miles of the road that is open to the public. It rained. We did manage to walk one short trail without any rain. As we were leaving the park, it started to clear so we headed back to the Denali Highway. More birds were singing as the rain was mostly stopped, but the clouds didn't part enough for views of THE mountain. We're hopeful for tomorrow.
Day 9, Saturday, June 12
The entire day was devoted to an 11-hour round trip bus ride to Wonder Lake in Denali NP. To our surprise, the day dawned completely clear. We had spectacular views of Mt. McKinley for the first half of the 86 mile drive before it got cloudy. The wildlife, including 11 Grizzly Bears, many Caribou and Dall Sheep (distant), and a few Moose were as spectacular as the many tundra wildflowers. We didn't expect much from the birding, but it turned out pretty good despite an acute lack of time at all the stops. We returned to our cabins for dinner and turned in for the night.
Day 10, Sunday, June 13
Today we mainly drove north to Fairbanks, making birding stops along the way. One good stop was along the Stampede Trail (road) where we saw Whimbrels and Long-tailed Jaegers. This road also gave us one more view of Mt. McKinley. From Fairbanks, we drove northwest to Murphy's Dome, where there weren’t many birds but lots of Sedge Darners. We'd been seeing lots of Four-spotted Skimmers and a Boreal Whiteface. We spent most of the early evening looking for food for tomorrow, surprisingly with little success.
Day 11, Monday, June 14
We spent most of the day exploring two areas of tundra northeast of Fairbanks along the Steese Highway. We also ended up farther north than we've ever been (65° 30'). We had some luck in the tundra before thunderstorms moved in, Our brief time of solitude was broken by military jets flying overhead (and breaking the sound barrier!) and a non-military helicopter landing in the trail parking lot. We then had dinner and birded around the airport before turning in.
Day 12, Tuesday, June 15
This morning we left early for a drive with birding stops to Paxson at the east end of the Denali Highway. Most of the stops had few birds, but we did see a fair number of Arctic Warblers. A side trip east of Delta Junction did not produce the expected Mountain Bluebirds and Sharp-tailed Grouse, but instead surprised us with a Northern Flicker and Western Meadowlark - the latter apparently quite a rarity there. We checked in to our cabin in Paxson (Denali Highway Cabins), and drove 20 miles up the Denali Highway for dinner at Tangle Lakes Lodge. We were only birding a little along here, but we saw some interesting birds. We then returned to our cabin for the night.
Day 13, Wednesday, June 16
We spent most of the day driving the 135 miles (mostly dirt) of the Denali Highway from east to west. As before, this road ensured its status as an outstanding birding road, especially the eastern half. Though it was overcast the entire time, it was quite scenic and birdy, and the rain held off until we got to Cantwell at the west end and had to continue our drive back to Anchorage.
Day 14, Thursday, June 17
Today was a "free day" in that we had no plans, and an 11:30 p.m. flight. We got up late (6:00 a.m.) and got partially re-packed. Then, we headed to the Eagle River Nature Center in Chugach State Park. With the high winds, and of course rain (only two days of the trip were rain free), there wasn't much to see so we returned to Anchorage. Finding the mysterious Tidewater Cafe was now our mission. It was mentioned on the Anchorage RBA as being simply "on the Seward Highway." On our drive to and from Seward we had not seen it. The objective was to see the Rufous Hummingbirds, which we'd missed thus far. So, on a hunch we headed for Alyeska, figuring it was somewhere along the side roads there. It wasn't. An inquiry at the local convenience store revealed that it was probably in Portage, 21 miles further on. We were told it probably wasn't open, but since we weren't going to eat there it didn't matter. We did find it, right beside the highway at a rather congested area...and there was a "For Sale" sign out front. Yup, it wasn't open; not at all. Fortunately, there were two large hummingbird feeders hung on the building and in a few minutes a Rufous Hummingbird paid a visit. Shortly another came by. We returned to Anchorage, briefly checking Potter Marsh. We checked the shorebird situation off of the Westchester Lagoons again, finding more birds than the first time. We then found an Internet Cafe to clean out our mailbox, then went to dinner. We checked in for our flight 5 1/2 hours early.
SPECIES LISTS
Wildflowers
The flowers on this trip rivaled the birds. Lifers are in bold face. Identifications were made based on two guidebooks purchased on the trip:
A Field Guide to Alaskan Wildflowers by Verna E. Pratt. 1989.
Wildflowers of Denali National Park by Verna E. Pratt and Frank G. Pratt. 1993.
Also helpful was:
Plants of Denali National Park
[a checklist]. 1986.
Birch Family
Mountain Alder
(Alnus crispa)
Shrub Birch
(Betula glandulosa)
Kenai Birch
(Betula kenaica) – As the name implies, seen in the Kenai Peninsula.
Dwarf Birch
(Betula nana) – Common in areas of tundra.
Bluebell Family
Mountain Harebell
(Campanula lasiocarpa)
Bogbean Family
Buckbean
(Menyanthes trifoliata)
Borage Family
Mountain Forget-me-not (Eritrichium aretioides)
Splendid Forget-me-not
(Eritrichium splendens)
Chiming Bells
(Mertensia paniculata) – Common throughout.
Alpine Forget-me-not
(Mysotis alpestris) – Alaska’s state wildflower.
Buckwheat Family
Pink Plumes
(Polygonum bistorta) – Common in areas of tundra.
Buttercup Family
Narcissus-flowered Anemone
(Anemone narcissiflora) – Fairly common in areas of tundra.
Yellow Anemone
(Anemone richardsonii)
Windflower
(Anemone parviflora)
Marsh Marigold
(Caltha palustris arctica)
Snow Buttercup
(Ranunculus nivalis)
Club Moss Family
Common Club Moss
(Lycopodium annotinum)
Creeping Jenny
(Lycopodium complanatum)
Composite Family
Alpine Arnica
(Arnica alpina) – Common throughout.
Frigid Arnica
(Arnica frigida) – Common in areas of tundra.
Alpine Hawk’s Beard
(Crepis nana)
Frigid Coltsfoot
(Petasites frigidus) – Common throughout, though it was in seed everywhere.
Alaska Dandelion
(Taraxacum alaskanum)
Pink Dandelion
(Taraxacum carneocoloratum)
Dogwood Family
Bunchberry
(Cornus canadensis) – Common.
Swedish Dwarf Cornel
(Cornus suecica)
Evening Primrose Family
Common Fireweed
(Epilobium angustifolium)
Dwarf Fireweed
(Epilobium latifolium)
Figwort Family
Coastal Paintbrush
(Castilleja unalaschensis) – Fairly common in the Kenai Peninsula.
Yellow Paintbrush
(Castilleja caudata)
Capitate Lousewort
(Pedicularis capitata) – Fairly common in areas of tundra.
Wooly Lousewort
(Pedicularis kanei) – Only on Eagle Summit.
Arctic Lousewort
(Pedicularis langsdorfii) – Common in areas of tundra.
Oeder’s Lousewort
(Pedicularis oederi) – Only once on the Denali Highway.
Whorled Leaf Lousewort
(Pedicularis verticillata) – Fairly common in areas of tundra.
Kittentails
(Synthyris borealis)
Gentian Family
Moss Gentian
(Gentiana prostrata) – Only at Murphys Dome.
Geranium Family
Wild Geranium
(Geranium erianthum) – Common in wooded areas throughout.
Heath Family
Bog Rosemary
(Andromeda polifolia) – Fairly common in areas of tundra.
Kinnikinnik
(Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
Bell Heather
(Cassiope tetragona) – Uncommon in areas of tundra.
Northern Labrador Tea
(Ledum decumbens) – Uncommon in areas of tundra.
Labrador Tea
(Ledum palustris groenlandicum) – Common throughout.
Alpine Azalea
(Loiseleuria procumbens) – Uncommon in areas of tundra.
Lapland Rosebay
(Rhododendron lapponicum) – Infrequent in areas of tundra.
Bog Blueberry
(Vaccinium uliginosum)
Low-bush Cranberry
(Vaccinium vitis-idaea)
Horsetail Family
Field Horsetail
(Equisetum arvense)
Iris Family
Wild Iris
(Iris setosa) – Fairly common along the Parks Highway.
Lily Family
Chocolate Lily
(Fritillaria camschatcensis) – Seen only at the Kenai Flats area.
False Asphodel
(Tofieldia coccinea)
Mustard Family
Cuckoo Flower
(Cardamine pratensis)
Eschscholtz Draba
(Draba eschscholtzii)
Parry’s Wallflower
(Parrya nudicaulis) – Uncommon in areas of tundra.
Orchid Family
Frog Orchid
(Coeloglossum viride viride) – Only one near the Eleison Visitor Center in Denali NP (not on the park list).
Parsley Family
Cow Parsnip
(Heracleum lanatum) – Common along roadsides, but not in bloom.
Wild Celery
(Angelica lucida)
Pea Family
Alpine Milk Vetch
(Astragalus alpinus)
Hairy Arctic Milk Vetch
(Astragalus umbellatus)
Eskimo Potato
(Hedysarum alpinum) – A common roadside plant throughout.
Wild Sweet Pea
(Hedysarum mackenzii) – A common roadside plant throughout.
Arctic Lupine
(Lupinus arcticus) – Common in the interior, not just in tundra.
Nootka Lupine
(Lupinus nootkatensis) – Common in the Kenai Peninsula.
Northern Oxytrope
(Oxytropis campestris) – Uncommon along roadsides.
Pendant Pod Oxytrope
(Oxytropis deflexa) – In tundra areas.
Purple Oxytrope
(Oxytropis nigrescens) – Mainly in Denali NP.
Sticky Oxytrope
(Oxytropis viscida)
Phlox Family
Tall Jacob’s Ladder
(Polemonium acutiflorum)
Northern Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium boreale)
Beautiful Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium pulcherrimum)
Pine Family
Sitka Spruce
(Picea sitchensis) – Alaska’s state tree.
White Spruce
(Picea glauca)
Black Spruce
(Picea mariana)
Pink Family
Tall Sandwort
(Arenaria capillaris)
Bering Sea Chickweed
(Cerastium beeringianum)
Arctic Sandwort
(Minuartia arctica) – Mainly in Denali NP and along the Denali Highway.
Arctic Sandwort
(Minuartia macrocarpa) – In tundra northeast of Fairbanks.
Moss Campion
(Silene acaulis) – Common in some areas of tundra.
Alaska Starwort
(Stellaria alaskana)
Poppy Family
Alaska Poppy
(Papaver alaskanum) – Along the Steese Highway.
Arctic Poppy
(Papaver lapponicum) – Mainly in Denali NP.
Primrose Family
Starflower
(Trientalis europaea) – Fairly common in woodlands in the Kenai Peninsula.
Frigid Shooting Star
(Dodecatheon frigidum) – First seen in Denali NP, then seen along the Steese Highway and the Denali Highway.
Purslane Family
Alaska Spring Beauty
(Claytonia sarmentosa) – Seen in Denali NP.
Scamman’s Spring Beauty
(Claytonia scammaniana) – Seen in Denali NP.
Rose Family
Mountain Avens
(Dryas octopetala) – Uncommon in tundra throughout.
Ross Avens
(Geum rossii) – Mainly in Denali NP.
Shrubby Cinquefoil
(Potentilla fruticosa)
Prickly Rose
(Rosa acicularis) – Throughout the interior.
Nootka Rose
(Rosa nutkatensis) – Only in the Kenai Peninsula.
Nagoonberry
(Rubus arcticus) – Nearly throughout, from Seward to Denali NP.
Cloudberry
(Rubus chamaemorus)
Raspberry
(Rubus idaeus)
Alaska Spiraea
(Spiraea beauverdiana)
Saxifrage Family
Yellow-spotted Saxifrage
(Saxifraga bronchialis)
Prickly Saxifrage
(Saxifraga tricuspidata)
Sedge Family
Alaska Cotton
(Eriophorum scheuchzeri)
Alaska Cotton Grass
(Eriophorum brachyantherum)
Stonecrop Family
Roseroot
(Sedum rosea)
Valerian Family
Capitate Valerian
(Valeriana capitata) – Only on Murphys Dome.
Violet Family
Small Yellow Violet
(Viola biflora) – Fairly common in woodlands in the Kenai Peninsula.
Willow Family
Balsam Poplar
(Populus balsamifera)
Quaking Aspen
(Populus tremuloides)
Alaska Willow
(Salix alaxensis) – Only in Denali NP.
Arctic Willow
(Salix arctica) – Common in tundra areas.
Gray Leaf Willow
(Salix glauca)
Wintergreen Family
Pink Pyrola
(Pyrola asarifolia) – Seen along the trail at Exit Glacier.
Dragonflies
Lifers are in bold face.
Sedge Darner (Aeshna juncea)
Very common along the road to Murphy’s Dome. Also seen along the Steese Highway.
Four-spotted Skimmer (Libellula quadrimaculata)
Very abundant at Potter Marsh, and seen at most other lakes and ponds after June 9. This is the Alaska state insect.
Hudsonian Whiteface (Leucorrhinia hudsonica)
Common at Potter Marsh and at other lakes and ponds.
Boreal Whiteface (Leucorrhinia borealis)
Seen along the road to Murphy’s Dome.
Butterflies & Moths
Many butterflies were seen that could not be identified, especially at Denali NP where perhaps 10 species was seen from the bus. Many butterflies were flying very fast and erratically, and not landing anywhere. Lifers are in bold face.
Canadian Tiger Swallowtail (Papilio canadensis)
Seen in many locations along the roadsides, and in Denali NP.
Old World Swallowtail (Papilio machaon)
Seen along the road to Murphy’s Dome.
Clouded Sulphur (Colias philodice)
Seen in many locations along the roadsides, and in Denali NP.
Mustard White (Pieris napi)
Seen in many locations along the roadsides, and in Denali NP.
White Admiral (Limenitis arthemis)
Seen only along the roads in the Delta Agricultural Project, but not seen elsewhere.
Common Alpine (Erebia epipsodea)
Fairly common along the roads in the Delta Agricultural Project, but not seen elsewhere.
Birds
A total of 149 species was found on the trip, which included six lifers and two new ABA birds. Lifers are in all caps bold face, and new ABA birds are in lower case bold face. Rarities are underlined. Number seen is in square brackets.
(Gavia stellata) [4]
One pair was seen on a pond a short distance up the Denali Highway from the west end, and two others were seen flying offshore at Anchor Point in the Kenai Peninsula. Fewer than we expected.
(Gavia pacifica) [37]
Most were seen offshore of Anchor Point, and one was in Resurrection Bay. Quite surprisingly, none were seen on any inland lakes.
(Gavia immer) [18]
Several were offshore of Anchor Point and Ninilchik, and three were in Kachemak Bay. A few were on inland lakes, mostly in the Kenai Peninsula and fewer than expected. One on a nest was at Wonder Lake in Denali NP.
(Podiceps auritus) [9]
Seen only in the interior around Denali and Fairbanks, on inland lakes. One on a nest was found along Murphy Dome Road.
(Podiceps grisegena) [92]
Found throughout the trip on inland lakes, though very few were seen in the interior. Most were in the Kenai Peninsula and around Anchorage. Several seen on nests at Spenard Crossing in Anchorage.
(Puffinus griseus) [10]
Most were offshore of Anchor Point, becoming identifiable in the scope when some of them came closer to shore. One was offshore of Ninilchik.
(Puffinus tenuirostris) [8]
All were offshore of Anchor Point, identifiable only at closer range in the scope.
Shearwater sp.
(Puffinus sp.) [65]
All were offshore of Anchor Point at distances that made identification impossible.
(Phalacrocorax auritus) [280]
All were along the coast in the Kenai Peninsula, mainly in the Homer and Seward areas.
(Phalacrocorax urile) [25]
Most were on rocky islands on Resurrection Bay, and a few were on Gull Island in Kachemak Bay.
(Phalacrocorax pelagicus) [76]
All were offshore of Seward, Homer, and Anchor Point.
(Anser albifrons) [1]
One was unexpected at Reflection Pond along the Petersville Road on the 10th.
(Branta canadensis) [145]
Only two were in the interior, in Fairbanks. Most were around Anchorage with a few in the Kenai Peninsula.
(Cygnus buccinator) [18]
Most were along the Denali Highway, with a few also along the Parks Highway from Palmer to Cantwell. Two on nests were seen on the eastern half of the Denali Highway.
(Cygnus columbianus) [1]
Along the Denali Highway just east of the Susitna River bridge.
(Anas strepera) [7]
Scattered birds were at Potter Marsh, near Alyeska, and at Westchester Lagoons in Anchorage.
(Anas americana) [129]
Seen on most small ponds and lakes around Anchorage and in the interior. Not in the Kenai Peninsula.
(Anas platyrhynchos) [152]
Seen on most small ponds and lakes throughout. A female with a brood of young was seen at the Fairbanks airport ponds.
(Anas clypeata) [40]
Most widespread in the interior, but a good number at Potter Marsh and around Anchorage.
(Anas acuta) [62]
In the Kenai Peninsula, only a few seen at Anchor Point. Most were at Alyeska, but also widespread in the interior. Females with broods of young were at the Fairbanks airport ponds and along the Denali Highway.
(Anas crecca) [31]
A few around Anchorage and the Kenai Peninsula, with most in the interior.
(Aythya valisineria) [13]
Most were at Potter Marsh where there was a female with 11 downy young. One was along the Denali Highway.
(Aythya americana) [2]
A male and female were at Potter Marsh.
(Aythya collaris) [1]
A male on Watson Lake in the Kenai Peninsula was possibly a late migrant.
(Aythya marila) [375]
Good number in inland lakes throughout.
(Aythya affinis) [39]
Seen in many of the same locations as Greater Scaup, but in smaller numbers. Very few in the Kenai Peninsula.
(Somateria mollissima) [1]
Surprisingly, only one was seen on the entire trip, where a male was seen offshore of Ninilchik.
(Histrionicus histrionicus) [127]
Five were along the Denali Highway and seven were in Kachemak Bay. All others were in the Seward area, with an impressive group of 115 at low tide along the shoreline to the southwest on June 5.
(Melanitta perspicillata) [26]
Widespread in the Kenai Peninsula. Most (12) were on Summit Lake near Paxson. One was along the Denali Highway.
(Melanitta fusca) [4]
One was offshore of Ninilchik and three were along the Denali Highway. One of the latter was very confusing, as it was brown, not black so probably a female, and had a gray bill, but lacked any white markings on the head. The flanks were also boldly scalloped in brown and buff. Initially, the bird appeared like a female Steller’s Eider, but the bill shape was wrong (visible in digiscoped photos taken of the bird). The white in the wing, hidden unless the bird stretched it wings, was smaller than typical and on the tips of the secondaries. The underwing appeared whitish. Perhaps it was a hybrid, but all female scoters have white on the head.
(Melanitta nigra) [2]
Both, a male and female, were on the Otto Lakes on the way from Denali NP to Fairbanks.
(Clangula hyemalis) [17]
Three were in Denali NP, and all the rest were along the Denali Highway (mostly the eastern part).
(Bucephala albeola) [12]
All were in the interior, with most along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Bucephala clangula) [4]
Two were along the Parks Highway on the way to Cantwell and two were along the western portion of the Denali Highway.
(Bucephala islandica) [22]
A few around Seward and several around Homer. Three were along the western portion of the Denali Highway.
(Mergus merganser) [25]
A few were along the Kenai Peninsula, but most were in the interior with the largest number (14) at Summit Lake near Paxson.
(Mergus serrator) [4]
Two were at the Skilak Recreation Area and two were along the Parks Highway on the way to Denali NP.
(Haliaeetus leucocephalus) [76]
Only a few were in the interior, with most in the Kenai Peninsula.
(Circus cyaneus) [6]
Three were along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway, one was on the western portion, one was near Anchor Point, and one was along the Stampede Trail.
(Buteo jamaicensis) [6]
Far fewer than expected. Only seen in the interior, where four were typical "Harlan’s" and two were intergrades.
(Aquila chrysaetos) [5]
One was along the Sterling Highway between Tern Lake and Homer. Two pairs, one at a nest, were in Denali NP.
(Falco columbarius) [2]
Far fewer than expected. One was along Highway 9 between Seward and Tern Lake and one was along the Parks Highway on the way to Denali NP.
(Falcipennis canadensis) [1]
The single female was along the lonely road through the Skilak Recreation Area. It was in the middle of the road, but photos couldn’t be obtained as a car came along and flushed the bird off the road as I was walking toward it with my camera. Apparently the guy was in a hurry.
(Lagopus lagopus) [3]
Far fewer than expected. Two were seen somewhat distantly at Denali NP where they were flushed by a Moose from near a well-vegetated creek. Identification was presumed based on habitat. One was seen well, but briefly along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway, as it flushed off the road.
(Lagopus muta) [1]
A female was seen well, and photographed, running along a side road near Twelvemile Summit along the Steese Highway. Noticeably smaller than Willow Ptarmigan, especially when at close range. And, of course, with a smaller bill.
(Phasianus colchicus) [3]
All were in Homer, and possibly are not "countable", but they seemed to be in habitat similar to what we’d expect elsewhere.
(Grus canadensis) [15]
Five flew over the Homer Spit and ten were at Creamers Field in Fairbanks.
(Pluvialis dominica) [3]
Two were at Eagle Summit along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks and one was at Milepost 13 of the Denali Highway.
(Charadrius semipalmatus) [33]
Two were at the Kenai Flats, two were at Westchester Lagoon, four were along the Denali Highway, and the rest (25) were on mudflats on the coast near Anchorage.
(Haematopus bachmani) [2]
One was on Resurrection Bay and the other was on Aialik Bay, both from the boat tour out of Seward.
(Tringa melanoleuca) [2]
One was near Anchorage and one was near Anchor Point.
(Tringa flavipes) [35]
Seen around Anchorage and in the interior. None were in the Kenai Peninsula.
(Tringa solitaria) [3]
Two were along the Parks Highway on the way to Denali NP and one was in the stream along the trail at Creamers Field.
(Actitis macularia) [7]
Widely scattered individuals or pairs, around Anchorage, at Exit Glacier, along the Denali Highway, Otto Lakes, and Murphy Dome.
(Bartramia longicauda) [1]
In display flight, only once, along the western portion of the Denali Highway.
(Numenius phaeopus) [7]
Four were along the Stampede Trail (past the end of the pavement) displaying, and the rest were along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Limosa haemastica) [174]
All were in breeding plumage on the mudflats offshore of the Westchester Lagoon in Anchorage. Seen there on two different days, with a peak count of 172 on June 17. Two were on the Westchester Lagoon.
(Limosa lapponica) [1]
One in non-breeding plumage among the Hudsonians in Anchorage on June 17. Obviously a late migrant.
(Arenaria interpres) [1]
Seen only at the Kenai NWR, at the Swanson Lake Recreation Area.
(Aphriza virgata) [4]
All were offshore of the Westchester Lagoon in Anchorage.
(Calidris minutilla) [5]
Far fewer than expected, perhaps because we didn’t walk into marshes and bogs much at all. Seen at Potter Marsh, Kenai River Flats State Recreation Area, and along the western portion of the Denali Highway.
(Calidris bairdii) [1]
Seen in a pond along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Limnodromus griseus) [455]
All were in breeding plumage near Anchorage offshore of Westchester Lagoon.
(Limnodromus scolopaceus) [2]
Both, in breeding plumage, were among the Short-billeds near Anchorage offshore of the Westchester Lagoons. Obviously late migrants.
(Gallinago delicata) [25]
First heard winnowing at Potter Marsh and Alyeska. Only one was in the Kenai Peninsula, at the Skilak Recreation Area. All others were in the interior from tundra sites including Denali NP and the Denali Highway.
(Phalaropus lobatus) [120]
Three were seen at Potter Marsh on our second visit there, and one was in a pond near Alyeska. One was on the western portion of the Denali Highway, and all the rest were along the eastern portion, including an impressive 73 birds on two different lakes on June 16.
(Stercorarius parasiticus) [2]
A pair found at the Kenai Flats NWR chasing Bald Eagles, and eventually one was seen settling on a nest. This is a known location for this species.
(Stercorarius longicaudus) [14]
Six were seen in Denali NP, three were along the Stampede Trail (past the pavement), one was at Eagle Summit along the Steese Highway, and four were along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Larus philadelphia) [104]
Most were along the Homer Spit and in the Anchorage area. A few were along the Parks Highway on the way to Denali NP, and one was along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Larus canus) [9825]
Very common in all coastal areas. Common, and the only gull in the interior.
(Larus argentatus) [26]
Most were in the Kenai Peninsula and in the Anchorage area. A few in interior areas.
(Larus schistisagus) [1]
An adult was seen among the Glaucous-winged, Herring, and Mew Gulls (and a few Black-legged Kittiwakes) off the tip of the Homer Spit on June 7. It was clearly larger than the Mew Gulls, and slightly smaller than the Herring and Glaucous-winged Gulls. The mantle, from all angles, was distinctly darker than any of the other birds present. The bird’s build was somewhat stocky and the wings were shorter in proportion. The bill structure was also consistent with what we’d seen in the thousands of Slaty-backed Gulls in Japan in 1998.
(Larus glaucescens) [4465]
Common in the Anchorage area, and very common in the Kenai Peninsula, especially in Kachemak Bay and Resurrection Bay. None in the interior.
(Larus hyperboreus) [13]
Three were at the Kenai River Flats SRA and ten were off Anchor Point.
(Xema sabini) [1]
A subadult still molting into breeding plumage off the tip of the Homer Spit on June 7.
(Rissa tridactyla) [9550]
All were in Resurrection Bay and Kachemak Bay, including some large breeding colonies on cliffs and islands.
(Sterna paradisaea) [250]
Most were in the Kenai Peninsula and in the Anchorage area. Only a few were in lakes along the Denali Highway and other interior locations, less than expected.
(Sterna aleutica) [58]
On our first day in Homer, they were quite numerous along the Spit, even flying over the road for its entire length, probably due to the stormy weather. The next day, with better weather, there were fewer and they were all offshore. Only a few seen on our boat trip in Kachemak Bay.
(Uria aalge) [3410]
The majority were on Gull Island in Kachemak Bay, but also seen in Resurrection Bay, and a few offshore of Anchor Point.
(Cepphus columba) [181]
Most were resting offshore, and as flybys, at Anchor Point. Also many in Resurrection Bay. Also a few in Kachemak Bay.
(Brachyramphus marmoratus)
[80]
The vast majority (75) were in Kachemak Bay. Others were in Resurrection Bay and off the Homer Spit.
(Brachyramphus brevirostris)
[5]
Seen in Aialik Bay just after we started heading back south away from the Aialik Glacier.
(Cerorhinca monocerata) [4]
All were in the vicinity of Aialik Point.
(Fratercula corniculata) [430]
First seen, and seen well on a cliff and in the water, on Resurrection Bay. Many were also offshore of Anchor Point, though fairly distant and in flight. We expected them in Kachemak Bay too, but didn’t see any there.
(Fratercula cirrhata) [480]
The majority were in Aialik Bay, with a few on Resurrection Bay as well. One was off the Homer Spit and a few were in Kachemak Bay near Gull Island.
(Columba livia) [85]
Seen mainly in larger towns, including Anchorage, Seward, and Fairbanks. A few were also at the Kenai Flats SRA.
(Selasphorus rufus) [2]
After considerable effort, we finally located the Tidewater Café, and the birds as well. Surprisingly, none were in the Seward area despite the number of feeders that were up.
(Ceryle alcyon) [1]
Seen only along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell.
(Picoides pubescens) [1]
Seen near Westchester Lagoon in Anchorage. Fewer than expected.
(Picoides villosus) [3]
One was along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell. A pair was visiting a nest at Creamers Field in Fairbanks.
(Colaptes auratus) [1]
Seen at the Delta Agricultural Project east of Delta Junction.
(Contopus cooperi) [13]
Several seen in the Kenai Peninsula, and a few seen in the interior. One was along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell, two were along the Petersville Road, and one was along the Denali Highway (Milepost 107.5) where it is apparently fairly rare. One was also in Denali NP.
(Contopus sordidulus) [5]
Seen at widely scattered locations. Three were at the Swanson Lakes area of the Kenai NWR, one was at the Skilak Lake Recreation Area, and one was at the Delta Agricultural Project east of Delta Junction.
(Empidonax alnorum) [71]
Common throughout the trip. The first ones were on June 7 at Skilak Lake (5), Watson Lake (2), and the Swanson Lakes area (2). Two were near Westchester Lagoon in Anchorage on June 9 at what appeared an to be unlikely breeding locale. Common throughout the interior after these dates, with the largest number (15) at the Delta Agricultural Project east of Delta Junction on June 15.
(Empidonax hammondii) [1]
Seen in a shrubby area adjacent to a stand of stunted spruces along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway on June 16. Apparently a migrant.
(Sayornis saya) [4]
Seen at widely scattered locales, all at higher elevations. Three were along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks, and one was along the eastern portion of the Denali Highay.
(Lanius excubitor) [4]
An adult with three flying young were seen between Mileposts 65 and 66 along the Denali Highway on June 16.
(Perisoreus canadensis) [15]
Widely scattered birds, including a couple pairs with young. Two were at Watson Lake in the Kenai Peninsula. All others were in the interior, including Denali NP, Steese Highway, and the Denali Highway. Two juveniles were at the Delta Agricultural Project east of Delta Junction.
(Cyanocitta stelleri) [2]
Surpisingly difficult to find. We finally had two in the neighborhood behind our motel in Seward.
(Pica hudsonia) [71]
Widespread and fairly common, especially in the Kenai Peninsula and around Anchorage. Smaller numbers in several places in the interior.
(Corvus caurinus) [74]
Seen only in coastal areas of the Kenai Peninsula, particularly at the southern end around Seward and Homer, but more common there than expected.
(Corvus corax) [69]
Rather uncommon and in small numbers, but seen throughout, from the Kenai through the interior.
(Eremophila alpestris) [8]
Seen only at higher elevations in tundra in Denali NP and along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks.
(Tachycineta bicolor) [145]
Most common along the Homer Spit, but also fairly common elsewhere in the Kenai Peninsula and around Anchorage. A few were in the interior, including at Fairbanks.
(Tachycineta thalassina) [125]
The first bird we saw in Alaska, sitting on top of our motel in Anchorage. Fairly numerous in the Kenai Peninsula, but scarce in the interior.
(Riparia riparia) [30]
Seen in small numbers at very widespread locations, including Anchorage, throughout the Kenai Peninsula, along the Denali Highway (western and eastern portions), and at Fairbanks.
(Petrochelidon pyrrhonota)
[293]
The most frequently seen swallow in the interior, with only a few in the Kenai Peninsula (Moose Pass and Seward).
(Hirundo rustica) [2]
Two were at the Tidewater Café near Portage on June 16.
(Poecile atricapilla) [8]
Two were at Westchester Lagoon in Anchorage, one was at Potter Marsh, two were at Alyeska, one was along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell, and two were along the Petersville Road. Fewer than expected.
(Poecile rufescens) [1]
After missing them at Alyeska, we thought we’d missed them, so were quite surprised to finally find one in the neighborhood behind our motel in Seward.
(Poecile hudsonica) [4]
Far fewer than expected, despite knowing that this is not a conspicuous species. Singles were seen at Tenderfoot Creek in the Chugach National Forest, the far western portion of the Denali Highway, at Otto Lakes, and along the Steese Highway.
(Sitta canadensis) [2]
One was at Westchester Lagoons in Anchorage, and one was in Homer.
(Cinclus mexicanus) [1]
We searched many rivers and creeks that were supposed to have them without success, until we got to one of many creeks on the eastern portion of the Denali Highway. More difficult than expected.
(Regulus satrapa) [1]
Much more difficult than expected, despite our familiarity with their calls and songs. The only one was along the Petersville Road.
(Regulus calendula) [50]
Most were in the Kenai Peninsula, with a few in the interior (none near Anchorage).
(Phylloscopus borealis) [79]
Arrived earlier, and more numerous than expected. The first one was near Milepost 123.5 along the western portion of the Denali Highway on June 11. Two were heard in Denali NP from the bus, and two were near Eagle Summit along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks. Three were unexpected along the Richardson Highway between Fairbanks and Paxson, as was the one near Summit Lake near Paxson. An amazing total of 68 was found on our trip across the Denali Highway west from Paxson on June 16.
(Oenanthe oenanthe) [1]
Only briefly along a hilltop trail at Eagle Summit on the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks.
(Myadestes townsendi) [1]
Seen at Eagle Summit along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks.
(Catharus minimus) [85]
Found in most areas of stunted spruce in the interior. Particularly numerous along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway (45). Only one was in the Kenai Peninsula, at Watson Lake.
(Catharus ustulatus) [48]
Most common in the interior in taller forests, but occasionally in similar areas to Gray-cheeked. A few in the Kenai Peninsula at Skilak Lake and Swanson Lake.
(Catharus guttatus) [63]
Most common in the Kenai Peninsula and the Anchorage area, in the tallest forests. Only a few in the interior.
(Turdus migratorius) [195]
Found in all habitats and locations. More common in forest, somewhat less common in tundra.
(Ixoreus naevius) [40]
Found in both the Kenai Peninsula and the interior. In the Kenai, in taller forest, but in the interior found in stunted spruce, a habitat considerably different from what they inhabit in the Lower 48 states.
(Sturnus vulgaris) [6]
Seen only at Westchester Lagoons near Anchorage.
(Anthus rubescens) [3]
One was in Denali NP and two were on Eagle Summit along the Steese Highway northeast of Fairbanks.
(Bombycilla garrulus) [17]
Seen at widely scattered locations. Three were in Denali NP, eight were at the Fairbanks airport ponds, five were along the Steese Highway, and one was along the Parks highway between Palmer and Cantwell.
(Vermivora celata) [56]
Common throughout; probably more than were written down in our notes. Found almost anywhere there were trees. They appeared to be similar to the eastern form we see in migration in Michigan.
(Dendroica petechia) [37]
Small numbers patchily distributed in the Kenai Peninsula and the interior. Seen in wooded and shrubby areas, even on the edge of tundra.
(Dendroica coronata) [118]
Common throughout, though more numerous in the interior. Found mostly in areas with taller trees, though some were in stunted spruces.
(Dendroica townsendi) [19]
First seen, and the largest number (10) seen at Alyeska. Also seen along Highway 9 between Tern Lake and Seward, at Skilak Recreation Area (5), in the hills above Homer, near Anchor Point, and along the Richardson Highway between Fairbanks and Delta Junction.
(Dendroica striata) [135]
Very common in the interior, especially along the western portion of the Denali Highway where there were 2-3 singing males in every mile. First seen on June 10 along the Parks Highway, along the road to Petersville, and in Denali State Park.
(Seiurus noveboracensis) [46]
Small numbers throughout, with the greatest number (15) along the Petersville Road.
(Wilsonia pusilla) [293]
Abundant throughout. Especially common along the Denali Highway where, in certain areas, there were 3-5 singing males in every mile.
(Spizella arborea) [80]
Fairly common in the interior, where they were in most areas of shrubby borders to tundra. Most common on the eastern portion of the Denali Highway. Their songs were much more variable than we hear just before they depart Michigan in late winter.
(Passerculus sandwichensis)
[158]
Common in all open areas in the Kenai Peninsula, near Anchorage, and in the interior.
(Passerella iliaca) [82]
Both Sooty and Red forms were seen. Sootys (13 total) were seen in the southern portions of the Kenai Peninsula (not in Anchorage). Reds (69 total) were throughout the interior (not in Anchorage) with the greatest number along the Denali Highway.
(Melospiza melodia) [2]
Seen only in Seward. Noticeably larger, and darker than Michigan birds, with an unusually thin bill, almost not sparrow-like.
(Melospiza lincolnii) [13]
One was singing near Potter Marsh and a few were in the northern portion of the Kenai Peninsula. Most were in the interior.
(Zonotrichia leucophrys) [450]
Certainly the most frequently seen or heard bird of the trip. Certainly the most numerous passerine.
(Zonotrichia atricapilla) [14]
Less numerous than expected. Most were in the Kenai Peninsula, but the best views were from the bus in Denali NP. The only other one in the interior was along the Steese Highway.
(Junco hyemalis) [67]
All were of the Slate-colored form. Fairly common throughout. One at Potter Marsh was singing an unexpectedly rich-sounding song.
(Calcarius lapponicus) [15]
Fewer than expected, but probably due to the rain dampening singing. First seen on the western portion of the Denali Highway. Best views were along the trail at Milepost 13 along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway, where they were also most numerous.
(Calcarius pictus) [3]
Seen only between Milepost 104 and 105, east of the Brushkana campground, along the western portion of the Denali Highway. Looked for at other sites without success.
(Agelaius phoeniceus) [3]
All were at Potter Marsh, two on June 5 and one in a different area of the marsh on June 9.
(Sturnella neglecta) [2]
Certainly the rarest bird we saw on the trip, but at the time we didn’t realize how rare. On June 15 we went to the Delta Agricultural Project looking for Sharp-tailed Grouse and Mountain Bluebird, neither of which we found. As we were wandering around, we drove to the northeastern-most point of Sawmill Creek Road, where Rapeseed Road turns sharply to the left. We heard the distinctive, flutelike, and somewhat choppy song (compared with Eastern) of a Western Meadowlark. The bird was quickly located singing from a fencepost about 30 yards away. It was a typical meadowlark, long pointed bill, chunky body, short tail, brown streaked upperparts, brown head with a white supercilium, and yellow underparts with a bold black inverted "V" on the breast. At this distance, we could not distinguish by plumage whether it was an Eastern or Western Meadowlark, but the distinctive song was enough confirmation. Farther west, along Rapeseed Road, another was heard singing from a field behind some homes, but we didn’t see this individual. Had we known of this species’ rarity at the time, better notes, and even photos, would have been taken.
(Euphagus carolinus) [10]
Fewer than expected. Only one was in the Kenai Peninsula, along the Sterling Highway. Most were in the interior, mainly from the highways from Anchorage to Denali NP, and to Fairbanks. Two were in Fairbanks and two were along the Steese Highway.
(Pinicola enucleator) [4]
A beautiful singing male was seen at Skilak Lake in the Kenai Peninsula, and another was heard in the same area. Others were at Denali State Park and on the western portion of the Denali Highway.
(Loxia leucoptera) [8]
Two were in the Exit Glacier area of Kenai Fjords National Park, and six were near the airport ponds in Fairbanks.
(Carduelis flammea) [58]
A few in the Kenai Peninsula, including in Homer. One was at Potter Marsh, the only one in the Anchorage area. All the rest were in the interior, and were most common along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
(Carduelis pinus) [18]
Almost all were in the Kenai Peninsula. Two were along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell.
Mammals
The total of 21 mammal species was quite good. Our trip into Denali NP was as productive as we expected it might be. Lifers are in bold face.
Black Bear
(Ursus americanus) [1]
One was seen crossing the road at the Skilak Recreation Area in the Kenai Peninsula.
Grizzly (Brown) Bear
(Ursus arctos) [12]
One was seen alongside the road south of Portage. The Brown Bears from this area have sometimes been considered a separate species (Ursus middendorfi). An amazing total of 11 in Denali NP.
Sea Otter
(Enhydra lutris) [19]
Most were in Resurrection Bay. Five were in Kachemak Bay.
Gray Wolf
(Canis lupus) [1]
Seen very briefly only by Allen in Denali NP. The first time we’ve had a chance to see one, not just hear one.
Steller’s Sea Lion
(Eumetopias jubatus) [51]
Almost all were in Resurrection Bay. One was in Kachemak Bay.
Harbor Seal
(Phoca vitulina) [53]
Almost all were at the base of Aialik Glacier. Three were in Kachemak Bay.
Arctic Ground Squirrel
(Citellus parryi) [19]
Ten were in Denali NP, and the remainder were along the Denali Highway.
Red Squirrel
(Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) [1]
Seen in Denali State Park.
Beaver
(Castor canadensis) [3]
Two were at Spenard Crossing in Anchorage, and one was along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
Muskrat
(Ondatra zibethica) [1]
Seen at the airport ponds in Fairbanks.
North American Porcupine
(Erethizon dorsatum) [1]
Seen along the Steese Highway.
Snowshoe Hare
(Lepus americanus) [2]
One was in Denali NP, and one was along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell. One was dead along the Richardson Highway between Delta Junction and Paxson.
Moose
(Alces alces) [14]
Fewer than expected. Two were at Skilak Lake Recreation Area, one distant and one crossing the road in front of us. Four were in Homer, including a mother with twin young in a residential area. Three were in Denali NP. Two were along the Parks Highway between Palmer and Cantwell, and one was along the western portion of the Denali Highway, right near the beginning, and right in the middle of the road. And one was along the eastern portion of the Denali Highway.
Barren Ground Caribou
(Rangifer arcticus) [19]
All were in Denali NP.
American Bison
(Bison bison) [38]
All were along the Richardson Highway between Delta Junction and Paxson.
Mountain Goat
(Oreamnos americanus) [4]
Two, a mother and a kid, were on a cliff in Resurrection Bay. Two others were along the Sterling Highway between Tern Lake and Homer.
Dall Sheep
(Ovis dalli) [33]
Ten were near Beluga Point southeast of Anchorage, and 23 were in Denali NP.
Beluga Whale
(Delphinapterus leucas) [20]
All were in Turnagain Arm, far offshore (we scoped them) of the visitors center for Chugach State Park.
Killer Whale
(Orcinus orca) [10]
All were in one pod in Resurrection Bay.
Dall Porpoise
(Phocoenoides dalli) [6]
Briefly at the bow of the boat as we rounded Aialik Point at the south end of Resurrection Bay.
Humpback Whale
(Megaptera novaeangliae) [2]
Both were in the southern end of Resurrection Bay.